One night, as we walked through the pit area and saw the cars up close, I overheard some fellows discussing this particular driver. They said his main problem was that it was race night before he opened the hood of his Chevy and tried to remember what issues it was having the previous race. Half-an-hour before the time trials was never enough time to correct the issues.
Forage-harvesting machinery also needs preparation long before it is due in the field. I would divide that machinery into at least three groups.
Equipment still in working order
First would be things that are in working order and only need storage until next spring’s crops are ready for harvest. A hay rake and the tractor dedicated to pulling that rake could fall into this category. If the rakes needed no repairs, and the wear parts are suitable for next year’s first cutting, then all the rake would need is a fresh grease job and protection from the weather.
Most hay rakes, I’ve observed, spend winter outside in the rain and snow. This is all the more reason to make sure everything that needs greased on rakes gets fresh grease before being parked for the season.
If the rake and the tractor that pulls it will be disconnected for the winter, then it would be a good idea to protect the electrical and hydraulic connections from the elements. Keeping dirt and sand out of a fitting is easier than removing it.
If a baler is judged “good to go” for next spring, it needs to have all forage residue removed so those little irksome knotter parts can be visually inspected. Knotter parts work well – right up to the point when they won’t tie knots anymore.
An experienced baler operator/mechanic will be able to tell by looking which of these little parts are good for next spring and which really ought to be replaced.
Other wear parts need to be examined closely before a machine is judged ready to rock and roll for next spring. What I’m getting at is: Just because a baler tied the last bale of the last crop without issue doesn’t qualify it as ready to go next spring.
If the tractor will not move until next spring, remember that less water will condense inside a full fuel tank than an empty one. A bath with a pressure washer or at least a few minutes blowing off the dust and dirt with compressed air will help. Rodents prefer places to nest that are packed with vegetation and dirt.
Rodents are also attracted to smells of food. Things like half a sack of taco chips or some dropped beef jerky will attract rodents. If a tractor cab is clean of food and garbage, mice and rats will be less likely to invade.
A packet of rat and mouse bait left inside the cab of a tractor will usually keep these little guys from nesting there for the season.
The other method that works is to put a large bull snake inside each tractor cab. This is very effective – but for some reason not very popular.
Mint or cinnamon air fresheners are said to repel mice, and laundry fabric softener strips also work.
Check the anti-freeze, and if it is due for an oil change, either change it before storage or make sure it gets on the “to-do” list for spring.
Batteries should be fully charged and either left on a trickle-charger or completely disconnected from all the electronics.
Equipment that needs attention
Machinery that needs attention before it hits the fields again is the second category. If a baler or chopper made it through the last of harvest on a wing and a prayer, it should be on the list for winter projects. Someone needs to write down what needs repaired so there’s a better chance of it getting done.
Prioritize and schedule so there is not a mad dash as next year’s first cutting is ready to cut – but the swather is not.
If it needs a bath before it can be repaired or overhauled, that works better right after it leaves the field the last time. Soft, warm dirt, grease and oil come off easier than if it’s caked or baked on for weeks before it gets attention.
The last person to operate it should be part of making the list for what it needs. He or she will remember best what that funny noise sounded like and where it seemed to come from. Hopefully, your crew won’t be in the habit of turning up the stereo so they can’t hear a strange noise anymore.
Once repairs and overhauls are complete, the same care needs to be taken as for the first equipment group before it is stored for harvest.
Equipment used through the winter
The final group is the machinery that will see some use through the winter.
If 70ºF is the low temperature at night, then that weak battery may keep starting the loader that loads hay trucks for a long time. If it sounds like it’s just barely starting the engine when it’s warm at night, there is a good chance that it won’t start it when the temperature drops to 32ºF or lower. There’s not much that’s more frustrating than having to deal with a loader that won’t start when you’re trying to load a hay truck.
If your old snowplow is serviced and ready to go, and parked where the engine block heater can be plugged in, then there is less of a chance that you will have drifting snow to deal with as the trucks show up to haul off your hay.
Air brake systems on loaders need the same winterizing as the air brakes on highway trucks. If your loaders don’t have air dryers, then you need to be meticulous about draining the moisture from the air reservoir tanks.
The most common water-in-the-line problem will be an ice crystal that will not let air move from the compressor to the air brake reservoir and system. Alcohol-based airline anti-freeze is both a preventative and a help for frozen air lines.
If your area has extreme cold, make sure your diesel equipment has winter-blend diesel fuel or an adequate anti-gel additive. Note that biodiesel and its blends will gel at higher temperatures than straight petroleum diesel. Winter-blend diesel is No. 2 diesel blended with No. 1 diesel. No. 1 diesel doesn’t have as much energy per gallon, but it will remain liquid at far lower temperatures.
A cab heater that works is nice, too. FG
