Growing up in Wisconsin, one of my favorite summer activities was hitting up the Wisconsin State Fair when it came to Milwaukee. Long before the craze of “fried things on a stick” took hold, my parents and I would wander through the livestock barns, admiring the beautiful animals, take a visit to the milking parlor, watch a parade featuring majestic Clydesdales and snack on a Wisconsin State Fair tradition – the cream puff.

The iconic “Original Cream Puff,” has been sold at the fair since 1924 and is the most popular food item among fairgoers – an average of 350,000 are consumed each year – a thing of delicious, decadent beauty. A mountain of whipped cream sandwiched between a pillowy soft pastry. But, I digress.

State fairs are a piece of Americana, but beyond that, they are one of the best ways that farmers and ranchers can connect with consumers in a casual yet meaningful way.

Long before I started working in the animal agriculture industry, I loved going to the fair simply because it was fun and I got to see farm animals up close and personal. For children, especially, a trip to a state fair can be a wonderful learning experience.

More than anything though, state fairs have long been considered to be “ag’s turf” – it’s where farmers go to show their animals, to sell their wares and to network with other farmers and agriculture professionals.

It should come as no surprise, then, that activist groups like People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) and others are specifically targeting state fairs and setting up shop trying to – ultimately – turn fairgoers away from eating meat, milk and eggs.

I have to hand it to the folks at PETA – it makes perfect sense. The opportunity to taint the consumer’s impression of the agriculture industry at an event that’s basically all about agriculture is downright diabolical.

This week in California, the media has been all a-flutter discussing PETA’s first-ever exhibit booth at the California State Fair. The booth features a large sign advertising “free stuff” and the viewing of a “secret” video.

Fairgoers can spin the “Wheel of Torture” which can win them a prize or a look at an undercover video which depicts the dehorning of dairy cattle. PETA’s volunteers at the booth have also been wearing T-shirts that say: “Unhappy Cows come from California.”

While even the media thinks it’s odd for PETA to be exhibiting at an event which celebrates livestock production and the American farmer (a Fox News story, for example, said the following: “Seems like an odd strategy since thousands of livestock exhibitors including 4-H and Future Farmers of America participants use the fair as a showcase for raising animals for food”), not only does PETA welcome the controversy, but that controversy is generating a ton of press.

The true genius of PETA’s marketing lies in the fact that most people likely don’t know what they’re getting into when they enter the booth and start watching the video. And once they start watching, they’re not likely to turn away.

Ignoring the fact that the video, which depicts the dehorning of dairy cows (fitting since California is one of the largest milk-producing states) likely uses a false narrative, the video is nonetheless powerful for one crucial reason: That’s the only impression many consumers will have of the dairy industry.

Most consumers are not going to follow up on the allegations made by PETA in that video; many will simply walk away taking what PETA had to say at face value.

Those fairgoes aren’t going to leave the booth and go ask a legitimate flesh-and-blood farmer to explain dehorning – they’re either going to forget about the video or they’re going to walk away with a tainted impression of the dairy industry; an impression which might, down the line, influence their decision to buy milk or meat.

I’ve been impressed and cheered by many of the stories written about PETA at the California State Fair, mainly because the farmers quoted give competent, personal responses to questions about PETA’s booth and the videos shown.

While responding to media inquiries is important, it’s more important for those farmers to be going out of their way to have pointed, meaningful conversations with fair goers.

Said Malorie Bankhead, a former beef ambassador who was raised on a farm, in an article about the California State Fair: “Animal care is the top priority for livestock producers. Our animals are our livelihoods, so we take into consideration how we treat them.”

Bankhead went on to say that her family is proud of what they do and that consumers should research how their food is produced.

I agree with Bankhead in one sense: Consumers should go to the source – meaning farmers or ag professionals – to learn how their food is produced. But at the end of the day, many consumers won’t because they don’t know who to contact, they don’t have time and many just want to simply know that their food is humanely produced and safe.

The reason PETA and other activist groups' marketing is so effective is because it’s in your face – consumers, the fairgoers, don’t have to seek anyone out or look anything up. And if they’re trusting, they’ll buy right into what PETA has to say – lock, stock and barrel.

PETA’s propaganda creates doubt, it spreads fear, and it calls into question what many consumers inherently trust: that farm animals are treated well and that their food is safe.

I get that there are some topics about livestock production that aren’t that fun to talk about – dehorning being one. Not all aspects of raising animals for food are pretty; there are some that look downright gruesome on film.

But if we’re not talking about everything on the farm – the good, the bad and the ugly – someone else will. And worse yet, if we’re not talking, it looks like we in the industry have something to hide.

So for all you farmers out there who are traveling to your state’s fair this year – I urge you to be personable with the public walking through the livestock barns. Be open-minded and try to have discussions with people admiring your animals.

Ask them pointedly, “Do you have any questions I can help answer about my animals or your food?”

Some might say that they have no questions, but for the fairgoers who do – be frank and honest. Let your passion and dedication to your animals, and to farming, show through. Share with consumers all of agriculture’s successes and all we have to be proud of.

And yes, if they ask, talk about why dairy cows are dehorned. One of my favorite bloggers, Dairy Carrie, did just that and it turned out just fine (read her blog on dehorning and Ryan Gosling here).

And just remember, PETA can show up at 50 state fairs, but they’re still on ag’s turf – so let’s show consumers what agriculture is really about. After all, we’ve got truth on our side and nothing to hide.

Oh, and if you want to make a summer road trip to Wisconsin, here’s the information on how you can get your hands on a world-famous cream puff. PD

Emily Metz Meredith
Communications Director
Animal Agriculture Alliance